Finished wood fender beauties!

I thought everyone would like to see the finished fenders from below.  I'll add some pictures of them mounted soon.

Kent Park MK Fender Winner!

Not sure who this is but here is the winner of the MKFenders at the Kent Park race a few weeks back.  Hope you enjoy them.  We will also be putting a pair of fenders on swag table for the Almonzo100 gravel bike race in Spring Valley, MN.  Good luck to all who enter the race!

...the master craftsman continues...

These are amazing.  My brother just reworked part of his manufacturing process to improve the thickness consistency and tested it out on some new designs.  I'm amazed with his ability to create new designs.  If you need something special don't hesitate to ask.

Beautiful Day for a Ride...

It's hard to believe that these pictures were taken on a bike trail in Cedar Rapids, IA but they were.  My son and I went out on our SS's for a couple hours on a very beautiful Monday afternoon.

I've been riding the MKFenders with the new hardware installed for about a month and a half with zero issues. In the past with plastic fenders, I've had to tweak, bend, twist, and tighten to get the fenders to stay so they won't rub on the tires…and would still have issues. These wooden fenders are solid...as a rock. I've ridden, gravel, wet gravel, pavement, jumped curbs, pot holed alleys and the hardware is still solid as can be. I think the fenders’ strength comes from the way they are shaped and the several coats of epoxy that are applied before the marine grade varnish. Love em.

35mm, 45mm, 65mm Fender widths.

As you can see in the install procedure we have a 45mm fender being mounted to a LHT.  Here we've installed MK Fenders on my BD.

We did use two hoops in the rear because the brake bridge is so close to the bottom bracket attachment area and wanted to split the difference.  These are 65mm width and fit great with a 26" wheel with a 2.2 in. tire.  The fenders are curved and shaped like a fender should be with just a little flat section to accommodate the wider tire.

Here's a set of 45mm, 26" on the Team Skin bike...and yes this the bike with the radio that you can hear comming for about a mile.  Notice how the standoff helped with the rack attachment and also the custom attachment in the BB area.

Remember every install is a custom install.

And finally these are 35mm walnut beauties installed on one of our favorite tandems...

MK Fenders Installation

**read in full before installing your fenders**

-download a pdf of this file
This document is an attempt to explain the installation process for the super cool MK Fenders. The new MK Fender hardware kit is unique and just pretty darn cool. It should be noted that every installation of MK Fenders is somewhat custom so expect some differences.

When you get your fenders your hardware kit should look something like this:

The first thing you need to do is cut the bent ends off your fender struts. Your strut will have one end that is extra long and have a 90 degree bend on it. These pieces are used to attach your fender to the frame at the brake bridge and fork crown.

I would cut these about three inches from the end. That will be long, but it will give enough extra rod to work with. Mount the angle strut to the brake bridge. To do this you mount one custom MK Fender standoff to the brake bridge with a 5mm bolt and slide the angle strut through the hole and secure with a short set screw. This should look something like this:

Now it is time to drill some holes in your cool new fenders. This is the thing that scares most people but the cool thing about this hardware setup is this no longer has to be an exact science, you just need to be close. You will drill three holes in the rear fender and two in the front. To start I would decide which end you want at the bottom bracket and drill your first hole about ½ inch from the bottom of the fender. Then decide where you want your rear fender strut to land. I usually go about 4 inches from the end of the fender but there are no rules, decide for yourself. The last hole is at the brake bridge and you will need to hold the fender in place and mark the spot.

Use a quality center punch and then drill the three 13/64th holes.

Mount MK Fender standoffs in the brake bridge and the rear strut positions. To do this you will need 2 “flat head socket cap screws”, 2 shaped fender washers, 2 regular stainless washers and 2 MK Fender standoffs. The flat head socket cap screws feed through the shaped washer through the bottom side of the fender. On the top of the fender set the stainless washer and standoff.

Mount the fender to the brake bridge and the chain-stay bridge, at the chain-stay bridge use a flat head socket cap screw and a shaped fender washer from the inside and a rubber washer between the fender and the frame. Cut off any extra length on the angle strut.

Mount 2 MK Fender standoffs to the frame eyelets at the rear dropouts. To do this you need to use 2 of the long set screws, 2 rubber washer, and 2 standoffs.

I would reinstall the rear wheel at this point. You need to install the rear fender strut and then estimate where to cut the strut ends.

Line up your fender with the desired space between the tire and then mark your strut cuts. Remove the strut and cut and file the ends. Reinstall and make sure everything is aligned correctly. Personally, at this point, I would stop and drink a beer. The rear fender is mounted and it is time to look at the front.

The front fender is much easier than the rear. I like about 6 inches sticking out from the front of the fork crown.

You have experience now that you have installed the rear fender so this should all be easy. Mount the angle strut to the fork crown and mount the 2 MK Fender standoffs to the fork eyelets. Decide where you want the fender strut to sit on the fender and mark your 2 holes. Drill and mount the MK Fender standoffs to the fender. Install the fender at the fork crown and install the fender strut. Mark your strut ends and cut them.

This is where we screw with you a little, if you read your instructions completely before you started you will have done this from the start. If you did not now it is time to completely remove the fenders you just spent an hour and a half to install and Silicon every hole and Loctite thread-locker every bolt.

Here is your completed project. Drink a couple cold friendlies and then go for a townie on your sweet wood-fendered machine.

Note to Installers:  Fenders of over 70mm need 2 stand-offs per strut on both the front and the rear.  These fenders are wide enough that they need the extra stand-off  for stability.  The use of 2 stand-offs require a little finesse and may need the struts to be reshaped slightly.  Also the stand-offs need to be on the struts before attached to the fender. Wait to tighten set screws until both fender and wheel are installed.